Gua Sha Guide: Techniques and Benefits for Effective Facial Massage
Gua Sha is a skincare technique with deep roots and promising benefits. This guide covers its potential benefits and techniques. If you’re curious about its impact and looking to refine your routine, this guide will help decide if Gua Sha is worth exploring.
I've been noticing a growing buzz around 'Gua Sha' in skincare. You've probably seen videos of Gen Z "looksmaxxers” rubbing their faces with oil and slab of jade, talking about benefits like reduced inflammation, lymphatic drainage, and trying to “sculpt” their faces.
But what is Gua Sha? And does rubbing your face with a rock really work? I dug into this hotly debated skincare ritual and compiled everything you need to know before trying it for yourself.
What is Gua Sha in Skincare?
To understand the Gua Sha trend, let's start with the basics: what is Gua Sha? Gua Sha is a traditional Chinese massage technique that involves using a smooth-edged tool (typically made of jade, rose quartz, or metal) to gently massage the skin, with the goal of increasing blood circulation, and reducing muscle tension.
"Gua Sha" refers specifically to the technique, but most US-based skincare enthusiasts, including myself, use the word "gua sha" to refer to the tool as well. Not only that, but this technique isn’t strictly for facial massage -- it's actually usable as a whole-body massage technique. Skincare enthusiasts have simply adopted Gua Sha as a facial skincare practice due to its associated skincare benefits, and it's seen surging popularity in the US as a result.
What are the Skincare Benefits of Gua Sha?
Before digging into the benefits, one caveat — much of the research on Gua Sha's purported benefits is not definitive.
While some studies highlight improvements in blood circulation and muscle relaxation through massage techniques, there is limited scientific evidence specifically linking Gua Sha to these outcomes -- but the technique has nonetheless gained popularity among skincare enthusiasts who believe it may help improve blood circulation, reduce puffiness, and promote an overall more sculpted facial appearance.
Facial Massage to Improve Complexion
Most notably, the act of massaging your facial muscles may help improve blood flow within your face. A research study out of Japan’s Tokyo Institute of Techology found that, in a 5-week research study, daily facial massage through the use of jade rollers was found to increase skin's bloodflow in the short-term, and even potentially widen skin’s blood vessels in the long-term.
These results suggest that facial massage, whether through jade rolling or traditional Gua Sha, can ultimately help deliver more oxygen and nutrients to your facial skin cells due to increased bloodflow. This might ultimately help with cell regeneration, in turn contributing to a more radiant-looking complexion.
Facial massaging using a roller can increase skin blood flow…[and] it can also improve vasodilation… in the long-term” - Tokyo Institute of Technology
Not only that, but by massaging your facial muscles, techniques like Gua Sha may also help to reduce muscle tension in your face. This can help minimize the long-term appearance of fine lines and wrinkles, since more relaxed facial muscles are less likely to form visible lines on the surface of your skin.
This is the primary use-case of reactive anti-wrinkle treatments such as botox -- paralyzing facial muscles to prevent wrinkle formation. By contrast, facial Gua Sha can effectively act as a proactive anti-wrinkle treatment by ensuring muscles are not tense in the first place.
Lymphatic Drainage to Reduce Facial Puffiness
In addition to improved bloodflow, skincare enthusiasts raving about Gua Sha also believe that this technique can help stimulate lymphatic drainage in the face, reducing puffiness and promoting a more “sculpted" facial appearance.
So what is lymphatic drainage? Medical resources like Cleveland Clinic describe the lymphatic system as the body’s natural drainage system. It plays a central role in maintaining fluid balance by naturally removing excess fluid and waste from your body's tissues.
The reason why facial massage (or massage in general) is considered to stimulate this process is because of how the lymphatic system works — it can be stimulated by applying gentle pressure in swollen areas.
When lymphatic fluid builds up, it can contribute to a congested, swollen look, particularly in the face. This is why skincare enthusiasts often turn to Gua Sha as a method of encouraging fluid movement and reducing puffiness in the face. While many report a visible improvement in facial contouring after using Gua Sha, scientific research on its long-term effectiveness remains inconclusive.
Does Gua Sha Improve Collagen Production?
Building on these potential benefits, one of the more hotly debated claims about Gua Sha is whether it has any material impact on collagen production. Collagen is the protein responsible for keeping skin firm and elastic, and as we age, its production naturally slows, leading to wrinkles and sagging.
Proponents of Gua Sha believe that regular facial massage could stimulate collagen synthesis over time, potentially improving skin resilience and mitigating the development of wrinkles. However, the scientific backing for this claim remains weak, and dermatologists tend to be skeptical.
While facial massage may likely increase circulation and promote a healthier complexion, its direct influence on collagen production is uncertain at best. For those seeking proven collagen-boosting treatments, options like retinoids, peptides, and laser therapy are more widely supported by dermatological research. Something to consider before trying it out yourself!
Important Considerations Before Trying Gua Sha
As with any new skincare technique, it's important to be aware of some of the common side effects and caveats before trying it out. One of the most common side effects of Gua Sha is petechiae — these are the tiny red or purple spots that may appear on the skin due to minor damage as a result of the massaging motion.
While this is an expected and temporary result in traditional Gua Sha practice, facial techniques use much lighter pressure to avoid visible bruising. Be wary of applying excessive force which may cause unwanted discoloration.
Additionally, medical professionals commonly warn that Gua Sha may not be right for everyone -- specifically those with sensitive skin, or facial injectables like botox or fillers. Here are some of the caveats:
- Bruising & Redness: If too much pressure is applied, petechiae and slight discoloration may appear. Always use a gentle touch, especially on the face, and avoid repeated scraping in sensitive areas.
- Skin Sensitivity & Acne: If you have sensitive or compromised skin (e.g., active acne, rosacea, or eczema) please be cautious and always consult your doctor. Gua Sha could potentially aggravate sensitive skin conditions, leading to additional breakouts or triggering inflammation in already sensitive areas. If unsure, consult a dermatologist before incorporating it into your routine.
- Botox & Fillers: If you have facial injectables, you may want to be cautious of performing facial Gua Sha in those areas. The massage technique could possibly disrupt the placement of fillers and may interfere with the effects of Botox, potentially shortening its duration.
How to Perform Facial Gua Sha Correctly
When getting started with facial gua sha, there are specific motions that will help you maximize the benefits of this skin-soothing practice.
- Start with freshly cleansed skin, and apply facial oil or serum to reduce friction. The Gua Sha tool should glide smoothly against your skin.
- With the Gua Sha tool in hand, apply gentle downward pressure and sweep the skin outwards. Be sure to use light pressure in sensitive areas like the under-eye region.
- Focus on each key region of the face one at a time, and repeat each sweeping motion at least 10 times. Consider your technique for each region:
- Forehead: Start from the center of your eyebrows and glide outward toward your temples, tracing the edge of your eyebrows, on both sides of the face.
- Under-Eyes: With very gentle pressure, sweep from the upper part of your cheekbone, outward towards your temples. Make sure to focus on the outer corner of your eyes to address eye wrinkles. Repeat on both sides.
- Cheeks: Start from the corner of your nostril, and sweep the tool along the bottom of your cheekbones toward your ears. Repeat on both sides.
- Jawline: Start from the center of your chin and sweep the tool outwards towards your ear, and repeat on both sides.
Repeat these weekly and monitor for results over the next couple ofweeks, as visible changes may take some time to become noticeable. Below is a helpful diagram that illustrates the key facial regions and demonstrates how to massage each area effectively.
Types of Facial Massage Techniques
- Traditional Facial Gua Sha: Performed with a smooth-edged tool, typically made of jade or rose quarts. This method involves gently scraping the tool along the contours of the face in upward and outward motions. Target areas include the cheeks, jawline, forehead, and under-eye region.
- Jade Rolling: While this is not technically a Gua Sha technique per se, it is in the same realm of facial massage / blood flow circulation techniques. Jade rolling is performed with a rounded slab of jade which is attached to a handle, and rolled across various areas of the face. It’s quite similar to Gua Sha, but not as penetrating. I would describe jade rolling as “Gua Sha lite,” and a good first place to begin if you’re new to facial massage.
- Ice Gua Sha: The same as facial Gua Sha, but incorporating aspects of cold therapy, specifcally by using a chilled metal Gua Sha tool. This combines the circulatory benefits of Gua Sha with the anti-inflammatory effects of cold treatment, commonly used to address puffiness in areas like the under-eye region. This method attempts to replicate the benefits of ice specifically for the face, such as reducing puffiness and soothing irritation.
Final Thoughts
Gua Sha is a versatile addition to your skincare routine, offering potential benefits like improved circulation, reduced puffiness, and relaxed facial muscles. While some claims are debated, many people find it effective — whether for sculpting, soothing tension, or simply enhancing their self-care ritual.
The key to making the most of Gua Sha lies in mindful application. By mastering the right techniques, choosing appropriate tools, and understanding your skin’s unique needs, you can tailor the practice to suit you. Whether you're drawn to its visual benefits or its calming routine, Gua Sha is a practice worth exploring — if only for the relaxing moment of care it invites into your day.